An Evening with Heinz Winkler -2005
The fifteen times Michelin Three Star winner made a brief visit to the Ritz Carlton in Doha and we were lucky enough to get a restaurant booking for ‘An evening with Heinz Winkler’
After complimentary cocktails we were escorted to our table in our favourite
La Mer restaurant and the Ritz Chef Alexander Paul introduced Heinz, and Heinz signature cuisine –‘cuisine vitale’– a unique brand of light, lively dishes.
5 COURSE MENU WITH WINE
Composition of Osetra caviar and delicate smoked fillet of salmon
Champagne, Lanson ‘Black Label’ Brut
This was a terrine made with Finnish salmon flown in overnight, with fresh baby asparagus, and centred with the caviar - the whole encased in light firm mayonnaise butter. A work of art to look at that you did not want to disrupt. The flavour of the salmon was so fresh, creamy and delicate and the caviar just right, not too salty and all the ingredients blended to perfection and melted in the mouth. The champagne was dry and crisp and was a perfect match.
Warm carpaccio of Omani lobster with lemongrass vinaigrette
Sancerre 2001, La Roche de Poignant
Omani lobster medallions barely poached in creamy foam that had a tantalising hint of the freshest lemongrass. Each spoonful a wonder, which I wanted to keep in my mouth for the longest time. Not a fan of white wine (I usually find them to sharp or too sweet) the Sancerre was perfectly balanced, at just the right temperature and did not overwhelm the delicate flavours of the carpaccio.
Pan-fried fillet of sole with spinach on red butter sauce
Sancerre 2001, La Roche de Poignant
The Brittany sole flown in overnight was firm and juicy, sitting on top of finely chopped spinach surrounded by a sauce that had a hint of sweetness contrasting the spinach. I have never eaten so slowly, savouring every mouthful. The same Sancerre wine equally matched as before.
French pigeon served in a bread crust
Chateau Cantenac ‘Grand Cru’ 1999, St. Emilion
Pink pigeon breast meat in a breaded crust with a hint of herbs, sitting on a creamy sauce made from the pigeon juice, and surrounded with the rest of the pan juices. The pigeon was earthy and lightly gamy, yet somehow in contradiction - fresh, the bread crust was crisp and the sauce had the smoothest game characteristics. The rich bodied St. Emilion again a perfect match.
Napoleon of caramelised pears and apricots, date crisp and caramel ice cream
Champagne, Lanson ‘Ivory Label’ Demi-Sec
The presentation of this dessert was a work of art. The caramelised date crisp, set with a light white marzipan and white chocolate in the shape of a yacht sail stood at one end of the plate. The pastry filled with light custard of caramelised pears and apricots in the centre and the creamiest caramel ice cream at the other end of the plate. Simply stunning and delicious. The champagne had just the right sweetness to compliment.
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Now I had to make a decision - the first one of the evening. What to drink and smoke to round off what is one of the finest meals I have ever had, whilst staying in vein with ‘cuisine vitale’ style.
To drink I had freshly brewed Darjeeling tea, and from the selection of cigars brought in Tessie's somewhat oversized handbag, a La Gloria Cubana Medallie d’Or No 4. The light tobacco, caramel sweetness and light herbal notes were delicious and followed on beautifully from the previous two courses whilst also complimenting the Darjeeling.
Examples of Heinz Winkler's Cuisine Vitale: